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Sharky Extreme :


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- Microsoft Rolls out the SideWinder X6 Keyboard and X5 Mouse
- Razer Fires up the Megalodon Headset and its Maelstrom Audio Engine
- OCZ Upgrades their Core Solid-State Drive Line to V2
- CoolIT Unleashes the Dual Drive Bay VGA Cooler for the Radeon HD 4870 X2
- Mushkin Launches a New Line of HP3-10666 DDR3 Low-Latency Modules
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Features

- SharkyExtreme.com: Interview with Microsoft's Dan Odell
- SharkyExtreme.com: Interview with ATI's Terry Makedon
- SharkyExtreme.com: Interview with Seagate's Joni Clark
- Half-Life 2 Review
- DOOM 3 Review

Buyer's Guides

- July High-end Gaming PC Buyer's Guide
- May Value Gaming PC Buyer's Guide
- March Extreme Gaming PC Buyer's Guide

HARDWARE

  • CPUs

    - AMD Phenom X4 9950 BE & 9350e Review

  • Motherboards

    - AMD 790GX Chipset Review
    - Gigabyte GA-MA790FX-DS5 Motherboard Review
    - AMD 780G Chipset Review

  • Video Cards

    - PNY XLR8 GeForce 9800 GX2 1GB Review





  • The first part of the motherboard setup involves the hardware configuration, where all the necessary on-board jumpers or switches are set. The exact procedure is inherent on the specific motherboard design, and the board's user manual will have all of the necessary information. Most motherboards will have a “CPU Default” setting that will suffice for standard operation. For initial testing, the CPU should always be left at its default speed, as overclocking simply introduces too many intangibles to the procedure. If you plan on overclocking the system, make note of any jumper settings needed to force a CPU to the 100 or 133 MHz FSB.

    Motherboard Jumpers

    To install a socketed processor in either a motherboard or a Slocket adapter, first raise the socket's retention arm into the open position. Then line up the pins on the processor to the layout on the socket and insert the CPU. The processor should slide in easily, but if not, confirm the CPU pin alignment is correct and that the retention arm is totally raised. Also check if there is a bent pin on the CPU itself. After the CPU has been properly inserted, lower the retention arm to the locked position.

    Next is the heatsink/fan cooler installation. Retail processors usually ship with thermal paste pre-applied, but those using OEM models or after-market coolers, will need to apply a small dab of thermal compound to the chip itself. Only apply the compound to the raised portion of the chip and not to the circuit board surrounding it. Remember that you are trying to provide a very thin link between the CPU and the cooler, and adding too much thermal compound can create the “Oreo cookie” effect, which can actually hamper cooling.

    Install Heatsink

    If motherboard space is tight, it may also be a good idea to attach the fan header before clipping the unit to the CPU. To install the heatsink, first line it up to the socket and CPU and make sure the orientation is correct. With most heatsinks, there is only one way to install the unit and still have it flush to the processor. Then attach the secondary clip to the socket base, while keeping the heatsink from touching the CPU and thermal compound. With the first clip still attached, line the heatsink up exactly and press it down on the CPU. After the heatsink is properly aligned, attach the primary clip to the socket as well.

    When installing an AMD Duron or Thunderbird processor, special care should be taken to purchase a heatsink specifically designed for the Socket A format, as well as installing it very carefully. If the heatsink refuses to go on, or you encounter resistance along the way, stop what you are doing and examine the situation before progressing. For both AMD and Intel processors check to see that the heatsink is sitting flush to the CPU and that it is not sitting on an angle, perhaps wedged onto the socket base itself.





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